We asked our mate Richard the brains and owner of Hawkwoood Mercantile to put together his top 3 jackets for us here’s what he picked.
I’m an English menswear designer, based in India and we’ve been trading for just over a year now, although I spent three years prior to that putting it all together. The gear’s mostly based on vintage military and outdoor clothing, with a bit of workwear thrown in. At the minute, each piece is still made to order one at a time by our own in-house tailors, which is more like the way in which the vintage pieces that I often use for inspiration were made, as opposed to the mass produced, production line methods that are used by most other modern day manufacturers. We don’t have a typical client, but most are guys who know what they want, but don’t necessarily want what they know any more and are looking for something a bit different.
Woolrich Woollen Mills Labrador Parka
One of the pieces that made we want to get back into design. I love the work that Daiki Suzuki did for WWM as it’s a little bit more toned down than some of the more eccentric work he does for Engineered Garments. The name’s a nod to the LL Bean anorak of the same name & it’s got elements of other vintage anoraks & parkas which have obviously influenced the design & my own. Daiki Suzuki’s a one off and second to none for the way he reinterprets classic Americana in my book and he’s been a huge inspiration.
Canadian Army Parka, Extreme Cold Weather, Combat
Just a cracking and very practical piece which keeps you toasty and looks great. It’s got loads of massive pockets and the great taped buttons (which are big enough to unbutton with gloved hands) common to much Canadian army stuff and you can wear it year round, taking off the hood and removing the liner. It’s a well thought out and sturdily constructed piece that looks and feels bombproof. You can still pick these up relatively cheaply on eBay and they’re a good option if you don’t want to spend 2 grand on a parka but still want something that does the job and turns heads.
Royal Navy Smock, Windproof, Blue
Amazing piece of kit which are still in use today and much loved by sailors. They’re an odd fit as they’re designed to be worn on deck over the top of the rest of your uniform and has space to wear bulky headphones with the hood & snap closures to channel the cables, but it’s really solidly made. It’s ventile, which feels great and is windproof and (almost) waterproof and has lots of reinforced patches. There’s another smock based on this one which was done in green for Special Boat Service canoeists, which is as rare as hen’s teeth, which is why we’re doing our own version of it.